近代民间服饰中的苏绣针法研究

发布时间：2018-05-02 12:27

本文选题：苏绣 + 服饰品绣　；参考：《江南大学》2012年硕士论文

【摘要】：本文针对近代民间服饰品中的苏绣进行了研究分析。论文的研究对象主要为三类：一是1976-2011年《考古》，1956-2011年《文物》杂志中有关刺绣的考古报告，以及前人的研究成果。二是江南大学民间服饰传习馆及南通庄锦云工作室搜集的近代民间苏绣实物；三是庄锦云工作室工作日志及在调研学习过程中，对张蕾、刘云等人的采访记录。首先，通过整理考古报告，对刺绣针法的产生和发展进行了系统的梳理，理清了其发展脉络。即针法发展经历了形成期、分离期、分化期，近代刺绣是传统刺绣发展的结果，具有传承性；而苏绣是刺绣发展分化的结果，具有时代性、历史性，明确了近代苏绣的研究价值。然后，以地域与风格相结合的方式，明确界定了近代民间服饰中的苏绣，筛选符合选题的研究对象。在此基础上，对这批实物整理归档，观测记录。分品类从刺绣位置、构图特点、纹样题材、色彩搭配等方面对近代民间服饰中的苏绣进行系统研究，从宏观、整体的角度研究民间服饰中苏绣的特色。最后，将研究对象进一步细化到苏绣针法。首先通过针法采集与实践，学习民间服饰品中的苏绣针法并绘制针法图，分析、记录每件服饰的针法特点。并提炼出近代民间服饰中常用的苏绣针法，进行分类。在此基础上，结合针法图细致解析每种针法的运针步骤及运用范围，总结近代服饰品中苏绣针法的特色，形成了比较完整的民间服饰品针法体系。同时，对服饰品针法与画绣针法进行比较研究，进一步明晰服饰品针法的特点，突出针法体系的针对性。并从刺绣尤其是针法技艺的角度，，探讨苏绣与刺绣者情感的关系。本文以近代民间服饰中的苏绣针法为研究对象，从传统技艺的角度进行了深入的研究。论文依托大量的近代民间服饰品实物及文史材料，通过实践学习和调查采访等方法进行考证、分析、归纳，并通过统计等方法总结其在工艺、色彩方面的普遍规律性。课题研究对于保护和传承苏绣非物质文化遗产具有重要的文化价值和学术价值。
[Abstract]:This article has carried on the research and analysis to the Su embroidery in the modern folk clothing ornament. The main research objects of this paper are as follows: the first is the archaeological report on embroidery in the magazine of Archaeology from 1976 to 2011 and the previous research results. The other is the modern folk embroidery collected by Jiangnan University Folk dress Museum and Nantong Zhuang Jinyun Studios, and the third is the working log of Zhuang Jinyun Studio and the interview records of Zhang Lei, Liu Yun and others in the course of investigation and study. First of all, through sorting out the archaeological report, the emergence and development of embroidery needlework is systematically combed, and its development context is clarified. That is, the development of acupuncture has experienced a period of formation, separation, differentiation, modern embroidery is the result of the development of traditional embroidery, with inheritance, while Suzhou embroidery is the result of embroidery development and differentiation, with the times, historical, It clarifies the research value of modern Su embroidery. Then, by the combination of region and style, the Suzhou embroidery in modern folk dress is clearly defined, and the research object that fits the topic is selected. On this basis, this batch of physical material filing, observation records. This paper systematically studies the Suzhou embroidery in modern folk dress from the aspects of embroidery position, composition characteristics, pattern theme and color collocation, and studies the characteristics of Suzhou embroidery in folk dress from the macro and overall angle. Finally, the object of study was further refined to Su embroidery needle method. Firstly, through the collection and practice of needling, we learn the needle-needling method of Suzhou embroidery in folk clothing ornaments and draw the needlework diagram, analyze and record the needle-like characteristics of each dress. And refined the modern folk dress in the common use of embroidery needle, classification. On this basis, combined with the needlework diagram to analyze the steps and application scope of each needling method, the characteristics of the Su embroidery needling method in modern clothing ornaments are summarized, and a relatively complete needling system of folk clothing ornaments is formed. At the same time, the article makes a comparative study on the needling method of clothing ornaments and the needling method of drawing embroidery, and further clarifies the characteristics of the needling method of clothing ornaments and highlights the pertinence of the needling system. From the angle of embroidery, especially needling technique, the relationship between Suzhou embroidery and embroidery's emotion is discussed. In this paper, the Suzhou embroidery Needle in Modern Folk dress as the research object, from the point of view of traditional techniques, in-depth research. Relying on a large number of modern folk clothing ornaments and literature and history materials, through practice study and investigation and interview methods for textual research, analysis, induction, and through statistical methods to sum up its technology, color aspects of the general regularity. The research has important cultural value and academic value for protecting and inheriting the intangible cultural heritage of Suzhou embroidery.
【学位授予单位】：江南大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.6

【参考文献】