近代民间袍服传统工艺研究

发布时间：2018-05-22 19:22

本文选题：近代 + 民间袍服　；参考：《江南大学》2012年硕士论文

【摘要】：本文针对近代民间袍服传统工艺进行研究分析。论文的研究内容主要包括三个部分：第一，对江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏的近代民间袍服进行观察测量，总结近代民间袍服的形制特点，并对以江南地区和中原地区近代民间袍服为典例的民间袍服结构进行复原；第二，，对于近代民间袍服的制作工艺，通过走访民间服饰工艺传人，对具体的工艺步骤进行记录、分析和研究，记录复原了袍服制作的过程；第三，对近代民间袍服的结构和制作工艺特点进行分析。本文首先对江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏的34件近代民间长袍和44件近代民间旗袍进行观察，记录和总结了近代民间袍服的形制特点；然后通过对7件中原长袍和9件江南改良旗袍的尺寸测量，来对近代民间袍服的结构进行复原。其次，通过对制作民间服饰的工艺传人进行走访，采用面对面的交谈、摄像和笔记的形式对近代民间袍服的具体制作工艺（裁剪和缝制工艺）步骤进行详细的记录，最后又对记录资料进行了整理、分析与研究，最终以图文并茂的形式记录和复原了近代民间袍服的制作过程。最后，更深一步探讨近代民间袍服传统工艺，从近代民间袍服的结构和制作工艺这两个方面进行了综合分析。得出了以下特点和规律：在结构上，找出了近代民间袍服平面“十”字型的结构特点，长袍通常采用衣身前后中缝“破缝”和“无接袖”结构，而改良旗袍采用衣身前后中缝“无破缝”和“接袖”结构特点；在裁剪工艺上，袍服的传统裁剪方法主要包括前后中缝“破缝”和“无破缝”衣身的两种独特裁剪方式，以及巧妙的裁剪里料法，这些裁剪技法充分的体现了人民群众的聪明才智和独特的审美观；在缝制工艺上，中国传统服装的制作思想是“重缝纫轻裁剪”，由此也产生了很多独具特色的手针针法和装饰工艺。
[Abstract]:This paper studies and analyzes the traditional folk costume traditional craft of modern times. The research content of this paper mainly includes three parts: first, the modern folk robe clothes collected from the folk costume museum of Jiangnan University are observed and measured, the form characteristics of modern folk robes are summarized, and the modern folk robes in the south of the Yangtze River and the central plains are considered as the canon. For example, the structure of the folk robe dress was restored. Second, for the modern folk robe clothing production process, through the visit to the folk costume technology, the specific process steps were recorded, analyzed and studied, and the process of restoring the robe clothing was recorded. Third, the structure of the modern folk Robe clothing and the characteristics of the production process were analyzed.
This article first observed 34 modern folk robes and 44 modern folk gowns, which were collected from the folk costume biography of Jiangnan University, recorded and summarized the form characteristics of modern folk robes, and then restored the structure of modern folk robes by measuring the size of 7 Central Plains gowns and 9 Jiangnan modified cheongsam.
Secondly, through a visit to the process of making folk costumes, a detailed record of the concrete making process (cutting and sewing process) of modern folk robes is recorded in the form of face-to-face conversation, video recording and note taking. Finally, the records are arranged, analyzed and studied. The process of making modern folk robes has been restored.
Finally, a deeper study of the traditional folk robe clothing traditional technology, from the modern folk robe clothing structure and the production process of the two aspects of the comprehensive analysis. "No sleeves" structure, and the improved cheongsam "no crack" and "sleeve" structure features in the middle seam of the body. In the cutting process, the traditional cutting methods of the robe clothing mainly include the two unique cutting methods of "crack" and "no crack" in the front and back of the middle seam, as well as the skillful cutting inside material method, these cutting techniques are full. It embodies the people's ingenuity and unique aesthetic view. In the sewing process, the traditional Chinese clothing is made of "heavy sewing and tailoring", and many unique hand needling and decorative techniques have also been produced.
【学位授予单位】：江南大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.5

【相似文献】