中国内地男性时尚杂志封面的女性服饰形象研究

发布时间：2018-07-02 10:12

本文选题：男性时尚杂志 + 封面　；参考：《东华大学》2012年硕士论文

【摘要】：中国内地的男性时尚杂志自20世纪90年代以来迅速发展,尽管杂志市场日益壮大,读者群逐渐扩增,但对于“男性时尚杂志”的界定不清,使人们片面地将男性时尚杂志等同于“男性杂志”。本文试图通过封面女性服饰形象要素的研究,从服饰现象本身出发溯源,打破以往研究服饰形象仅从描述性分析或仅从社会性别理论等单一角度进行的惯例。结合杂志受众的反馈研究,试从受众角度分析男性时尚杂志封面上女性服饰形象塑造的依据。文中选取了三本代表不同类型的男性时尚杂志,分别是《男人装》、《高尔夫时尚》、《数字时代》。通过收集距离笔者完稿前三年半(2008年1月~2011年6月)时间内的42个有效封面样本,提取其中反映女性服饰形象的关键要素归纳总结。有关服饰形象要素的研究是本文的重点,文章分别从整体风格、上装、下装、妆容发型、服饰配件和其他几个方面进行,其中上装和下装又细分为服装款式、而料、颜色、裸露度、紧身度和通透度六个因素去考查。受众的反馈研究主要是以问卷调研为主,在问卷调研的题目设置上有涉及封而服饰形象的,笔者有意采用了与封而样本研究相对应的要素,便于进一步作对比研究。通过发放一定数量的网络和实体问卷比较差异,辅以部分的个案访谈是受众反馈研究采用的主要方法。通过研究,得出以下结论：首先,出现在男性时尚杂志的女性服饰形象具有高度的相似性,服饰的整体风格都是较成熟性感的,在服装款式上多为裸露度高、完全紧身和不透明的比基尼或是连衣裙款式,颜色上多为黑色,服装而料上主要集中在天然而料的丝绸、棉或足合成化纤上。为了配合服饰形象的风格,封而人物多为皮肤白暂、强调眼妆、长卷发披发的女星。其次,从受众的问卷调研和访谈中可以看出,他们偏爱的女性服饰形象为整体风格成熟性感,服装款式上多为裸露度高、完全紧身和不透明的紧身胸衣,服饰配件上偏爱高跟鞋,颜色上多为黑色,而料集中在天然而料的雪纺和丝绸上,可以接受全裸的封而服饰形象。对于封面人物,他们多偏好皮肤白暂,摆出S型曲线身体姿势的女星。最后,根据杂志封面服饰形象研究和受众反馈中的数据对比,发现两者在服装的整体风格、天然面料、部分颜色、服装的紧身度等方面呈现出一致性,说明了杂志较能够满足受众的需求。与此同时,两者也存在一定程度上的不相契合。从对比研究中,可以看出男性时尚杂志在传播过程中的复杂性和男性时尚杂志的受众在阅读过程中的矛盾性。这是男性时尚杂志在传播过程中普遍存在的问题,也是至今仍然存在争议和值得探讨的地方,而通过大量的实证研究找出两者的关联性和差异性是本文的研究重点。最后,希望本篇论文的研究对将来的杂志出版有一定的帮助和借鉴意义。
[Abstract]:Men's fashion magazines in mainland China have developed rapidly since the 1990s. Although the magazine market is growing and the readership is expanding, the definition of "men's fashion magazine" is unclear. It makes people equate men's fashion magazines with men's magazines. This paper attempts to trace back to the source of the dress phenomenon through the study of the elements of the cover female dress image and break the convention that the clothing image is studied only from the descriptive analysis or only from the single angle of the gender theory and so on. Combined with the feedback research of magazine audience, this paper tries to analyze the basis of shaping the female dress image on the cover of male fashion magazine from the perspective of audience. This paper selects three men's fashion magazines representing different types of men's fashion magazines, which are Men's dress, Golf Fashion and Digital Age. Through collecting 42 valid cover samples in the period of three and a half years (from January 2008 to June 2011) from the author to finish the manuscript, the key factors reflecting the image of women's dress were summarized and summarized. The research on the image elements of clothing is the focus of this paper. The article is carried out separately from the overall style, top, lower, makeup and hairstyle, clothing accessories and several other aspects, in which the top and bottom clothes are subdivided into clothing styles, and materials, colors, etc. Six factors of nudity, tightness and permeability were examined. The feedback research of the audience is mainly based on the questionnaire research. The topic setting of the questionnaire survey involves the image of seal and clothing. The author intends to adopt the elements corresponding to the study of sealing and sample, which is convenient for further comparative study. By issuing a certain number of network and entity questionnaires, supplemented by part of the case interview is the main method used in the research of audience feedback. Through the research, the following conclusions can be drawn: firstly, the image of female dress appearing in the men's fashion magazine has a high similarity, the overall style of clothing is more mature and sexy, and the clothing style is mostly nude. Completely tight and opaque bikini or dress style, mostly black color, clothing and materials mainly concentrated on natural silk, cotton or foot synthetic chemical fiber. In order to match the style of dress image, the characters are mostly white temporarily, emphasizing eye makeup and long curly hair. Secondly, it can be seen from the questionnaire survey and interviews of the audience that their preferred female dress images are mature and sexy in the overall style, and the close-fitting corset with a high degree of nudity, full tightness and opacity in the style of clothing. Clothing accessories prefer high heels, black color, and materials concentrated in natural chiffon and silk, can accept the naked seal and dress image. For cover characters, they prefer white skin temporary, S-curve posture of the body of the actress. Finally, according to the research of magazine cover dress image and the data contrast in audience feedback, it is found that the two show consistency in the overall style of clothing, natural fabric, some colors, the tightness of clothing, etc. It shows that the magazine can meet the needs of the audience. At the same time, there is also a certain degree of incongruity between the two. From the comparative study, we can see the complexity of the men's fashion magazine in the process of communication and the contradiction between the audience of the men's fashion magazine and the reading process. This is a common problem in the process of dissemination of men's fashion magazine, and it is still controversial and worthy of discussion, and through a large number of empirical studies to find out the relevance and difference between the two is the focus of this study. Finally, I hope the research of this paper will be helpful to the future publication of magazines.
【学位授予单位】：东华大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.5

【参考文献】