清代服饰云纹在现代高级成衣设计中的应用研究
发布时间：2018-08-22 07:13
【摘要】：云纹,是极具中华民族特色的典型纹样。云纹始于商周古朴的云雷纹,至清代繁复纤巧,集历代之大成,可谓历久弥新。云纹纹样本身组合方式多样,纷繁复杂且演绎无穷,其背后更是承载着浓厚的人文气韵。本文重点研究清代服饰云纹的演变,通过列表对比分析的方法,探究云纹在形态上演变以及色彩的运用方式,并在此基础上,结合清代政治、经济、文化等多方面因素,深入探究云纹的文化内涵。清代前期云纹多继承明代云纹特点,有朵云、团簇云、串云,后出现“壬”字云纹,至雍正时期,以枝状云较为典型;清中期经济繁荣、生产力发展水平较高,极大促进纹样的发展,以叠云纹最为典型,其形态铺张繁复、连绵不绝;至清后期国力渐弱,纹样重装饰,但形态较为匠气,稍显呆板。云纹除具有美好、吉祥等寓意外,在清代宫廷服饰中更是神秘、威严、尊贵的象征。由于云本身变化无穷的特性,针对云纹就有着诸多的可设计性,且云纹本身被赋予了高贵、吉祥等美好愿景,无论形态还是内在意义与高级成衣都有诸多契合点。故本文通过针对清代服饰云纹理论方面的研究,将清代服饰云纹或直接应用或加以变化,并应用于现代高级成衣的设计中,力求探索我国传统服饰纹样与现代服装审美需求的有机结合方式。在实践设计中,笔者主要针对云形云态加以变化,应用于成衣不同装饰部位,在符合现代服饰审美的条件下保留云纹本身的美感。最后,希望通过本次研究过程,能对后续与传统文化相关的设计工作者及理论研究者有所启发有所帮助。
[Abstract]:Moire, is a typical pattern with the characteristics of the Chinese nation. The moire began in the ancient Shang and Zhou dynasties, and it was complex and delicate in the Qing Dynasty. The moire pattern itself combines various ways, complex and deductive, behind it is carrying a strong humanistic charm. This paper focuses on the evolution of dress moire in Qing Dynasty. By means of comparative analysis, it explores the evolution of moire in shape and the application of color. On this basis, it combines the political, economic, cultural and other factors of Qing Dynasty. Deeply explore the cultural connotation of moire. In the early Qing Dynasty, the moire inherited the characteristics of the moire of the Ming Dynasty. There was a cloud, a cluster cloud, a string cloud, and then appeared the "nonnon" character cloud. In the period of Yongzheng, the branch cloud was more typical, and the economic prosperity in the middle Qing Dynasty, the development level of productive forces was relatively high. Greatly promote the development of patterns, the most typical of the stacked moire, its form spread and complex, continuous; to the late Qing Dynasty, the national strength gradually weakened, the pattern was heavily decorated, but the form is more craftsmanship, slightly stiff. In addition to beautiful, auspicious and other moral, moire is a symbol of mystery, majesty and honor in Qing Dynasty palace dress. Because of the changing nature of cloud itself, there are many designability for moire, and the moire itself is endowed with noble, auspicious and beautiful vision. Therefore, through the research on the theory of dress moire in Qing Dynasty, this paper applies it to the design of modern high grade garments. This paper tries to explore the organic combination of Chinese traditional dress pattern and modern costume aesthetic demand. In the practical design, the author mainly changes the cloud state, and applies it to different decorative parts of clothing, keeping the aesthetic feeling of moire itself in accordance with the aesthetic condition of modern dress. Finally, it is hoped that through this research process, it will be helpful to designers and theoretical researchers concerned with traditional culture.
【学位授予单位】：武汉纺织大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.2
[Abstract]:Moire, is a typical pattern with the characteristics of the Chinese nation. The moire began in the ancient Shang and Zhou dynasties, and it was complex and delicate in the Qing Dynasty. The moire pattern itself combines various ways, complex and deductive, behind it is carrying a strong humanistic charm. This paper focuses on the evolution of dress moire in Qing Dynasty. By means of comparative analysis, it explores the evolution of moire in shape and the application of color. On this basis, it combines the political, economic, cultural and other factors of Qing Dynasty. Deeply explore the cultural connotation of moire. In the early Qing Dynasty, the moire inherited the characteristics of the moire of the Ming Dynasty. There was a cloud, a cluster cloud, a string cloud, and then appeared the "nonnon" character cloud. In the period of Yongzheng, the branch cloud was more typical, and the economic prosperity in the middle Qing Dynasty, the development level of productive forces was relatively high. Greatly promote the development of patterns, the most typical of the stacked moire, its form spread and complex, continuous; to the late Qing Dynasty, the national strength gradually weakened, the pattern was heavily decorated, but the form is more craftsmanship, slightly stiff. In addition to beautiful, auspicious and other moral, moire is a symbol of mystery, majesty and honor in Qing Dynasty palace dress. Because of the changing nature of cloud itself, there are many designability for moire, and the moire itself is endowed with noble, auspicious and beautiful vision. Therefore, through the research on the theory of dress moire in Qing Dynasty, this paper applies it to the design of modern high grade garments. This paper tries to explore the organic combination of Chinese traditional dress pattern and modern costume aesthetic demand. In the practical design, the author mainly changes the cloud state, and applies it to different decorative parts of clothing, keeping the aesthetic feeling of moire itself in accordance with the aesthetic condition of modern dress. Finally, it is hoped that through this research process, it will be helpful to designers and theoretical researchers concerned with traditional culture.
【学位授予单位】：武汉纺织大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.2
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