满族服饰文化变迁研究

发布时间：2018-01-02 15:37

本文关键词：满族服饰文化变迁研究　出处：《中央民族大学》2008年博士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】： 满族是中国56个民族之一,它曾建立了中国最后一个封建王朝。在中国历史发展的进程中,满族的社会、经济、文化等方面也经历了变迁,满族服饰在这变迁过程中有自己发展变化的规律和轨迹。满族及其先世的服饰元素丰富了中华民族的服饰文化,众所周知的旗袍、坎肩、马褂等在近现代已被国人普遍接受,并成为中华民族服饰的典型代表,它是满族服饰继承融合的结果。满族服饰在其变迁的过程中,是如何受到社会文化环境和自然环境的影响?满族服饰是如何变迁的?影响各个时期满族服饰变迁的决定性因素是什么?满族服饰变迁的规律性是什么?它对当代中华民族服饰的发展有何借鉴意义?如何通过追溯满族服饰与文化、历史和社会的渊源,对当前的服饰作出文化解读?如何保护和开发少数民族文化遗产?这些是本论文要解决的问题。一部满族服饰文化发展史,可以折射出满族及其文化的发展变迁史。本论文将从满族服饰历时性的发展和清代满族服饰共时性的变化进行分析,阐述其各个层面发生着的显在或隐性的变迁;以满族服饰为主题,自然环境和社会文化环境作为背景,研究这两者之间的关系,展开对满族服饰文化变迁事项的描述和变迁深层原因的挖掘,以及分析探讨由变迁所带来的对中国近现代社会服饰文化发展所产生的影响。从这些方面探讨满族服饰文化,在学术界具有首创性。满族服饰文化是绚丽多彩的中华文化尤其是少数民族文化的重要组成部分,也是文化遗产的重要组成部分。满族服饰不但继承了汉族在历史上衣着的长处,而且还把自己民族经历过检验、实践,证明既适合于生活需要、又有民族特色的东西保留了下来,它把继承、借用、创新和再生有机地融为一体,它是中国历史与当代民族团结、民族融合和文化借鉴的重要实证之一。满族服饰的形成、发展、变迁和再生,为中国民族服饰之间相互影响、相互作用提供了实际的范例。满族服饰发展和变迁的轨迹和规律,对研究中国各民族服饰之间的相互关系以及推进中国各民族服饰文化的共同繁荣、对现代服装设计中民族传统服饰元素与流行时尚的结合等方面部有着重要意义。本论文是在收集大量历史文献和进行广泛田野调查的基础上,首次对满族服饰做一历时性的梳理和文化变迁的研究。特别是在文化大繁荣、大发展的当今社会,如何将传统和现代以及世界的服饰元素结合起来,创造出具有民族特色的服饰,是我们这代人义不容辞的责任;如何在全球化的进程中,既保持本民族的主体文化特色,又能与世界其他国家和平融洽地相处,真正做到“文化自觉”,让文化在继承中得到发展,在改革中得到创新,是目前摆在我们面前不容回避的一道难题。研究满族服饰的文化变迁,对拥有56个民族的中国以及世界范围内的各个民族之间相互交往、相互融合、人类社会和谐相处将有一定的意义。本论文从满族服饰文化的变迁过程中,探寻出一条可能解决这一棘手问题的道路。本论文主要采用了历史文献研究法、民族学实地调查法、多学科综合研究法。本论文是集民族学、文化人类学、艺术学、美学、历史学等多学科于一身的研究,这些学科都是以人及其文化作为主要的研究对象,用以阐释当今社会出现的各种现象。本论文将地下的出土文物、地上的传世文献以及民族学的田野调查资料结合在一起进行研究,将它们放在同一研究平台上,互相对照,综合研究。
[Abstract]:Manchu is one of the China 56 ethnic groups, it has established a China last feudal dynasty. Chinese in the historical development process, the social, economic, cultural and other aspects have also experienced changes, Manchu clothing rules and their own path of development and change in the process of change. The Manchu clothing elements includes its rich the dress culture of the Chinese nation, as everyone knows the cheongsam, sleeveless jacket, jacket etc. has been widely accepted by the Chinese people in modern times, and become a typical representative of Chinese national dress, it is the result of the integration. The inheritance of Manchu clothing of Manchu clothing in the process of change, is affected by social and cultural environment and the natural environment? How does the Manchu's costume change? What is the decisive factor in each period of Manchu costume change? What is the regularity of the changes of Manchu's costume? What is it to contemporary Chinese clothing development What is the significance? How to make a cultural interpretation of the current costumes by tracing back to the origin of Manchu clothing and culture, history and society? How to protect and develop the cultural heritage of ethnic minorities? These are the problems to be solved in this paper.
Developing history of Manchu's dress culture, can reflect the history and development of Manchu culture and the change of development. This paper will be from the diachronic of Manchu clothing and dress of Manchu in Qing Dynasty is analyzed, the various levels that occur in explicit or implicit change; in full costume as the theme, natural environment the social and cultural environment as the background, to study the relationship between the mining expansion description and deep reason in the changes of the Manchu clothing cultural change matters, as well as the analysis on the changes brought by the modern society China clothing culture development. The influence of Manchu costume culture from these aspects, with the first in the academic circles.
The costume of Manchu culture is bright and colorful Chinese culture especially an important part of the national culture, but also an important part of the cultural heritage of the Manchu clothing. Not only inherited the Han nationality in the history of the coat's strengths, but also his nation experienced test, practice, that is not only suitable for the needs of life and national characteristics of the things to keep put it down, inherit, borrow, innovation and regeneration organically, it is Chinese historical and contemporary national unity, national integration and culture is one of the important empirical reference. The development of formation of Manchu clothing, changes and regeneration for the mutual influence between Chinese ethnic costumes, interaction provides the actual trajectory and examples. The law of Manchu clothing development and change, to study the relationship between the China costumes of all ethnic groups and promoting the common prosperity of all ethnic groups Chinese clothing culture, the modern It is of great significance in the combination of the elements of the national traditional dress and the fashion of fashion in the design of clothing.
This paper is based on extensive fieldwork in the collection of a large amount of historical documents and the study for the first time, analyze and culture change of diachronic of Manchu clothing. Especially in the cultural prosperity, the development of today's society, how will the clothing elements of traditional and modern world and combine to create with the national characteristics the dress is our generation's bounden responsibility; how in the process of globalization, while maintaining the national culture characteristics, but also with other countries for world peace and harmony together, truly "cultural consciousness", let the culture development in succession, innovation in the reform, is a problem at present in front of us can not be avoided. The research on the cultural changes of Manchu clothing, interaction between each nation of 56 ethnic Chinese and worldwide, mutual integration, human society In this paper, we find out a way to solve this difficult problem in the process of the cultural changes of the Manchu clothing.
This paper mainly uses the historical literature, ethnology investigation method, multi-disciplinary research methods. This paper is a set of ethnology, cultural anthropology, art, aesthetics, studies in the history and other disciplines, these disciplines are based on people and culture as the research object to, to explain the the various social phenomena. The unearthed cultural relics underground, on the ancient texts and Ethnological fieldwork data together to research, put them in the same research platform, mutual control, comprehensive research.

【学位授予单位】：中央民族大学
【学位级别】：博士
【学位授予年份】：2008
【分类号】：K892.23

【引证文献】