宋代服饰制度研究
发布时间：2018-11-01 18:19
【摘要】：素有“衣冠王国”称誉的中国，服饰的发展有着悠久的历史。几千年来，中国人民创造了无数具有中华民族特色的衣冠服饰，给中华民族文化增添了灿烂的光辉。 华夏民族的衣冠服饰制度，大约在夏商时期即见端倪，到周代渐趋完善，并被纳入“礼治”范畴，成为“昭明分、辨等威”的工具，尊卑贵贱，，各有分别。从此，天子后妃、公卿百官的衣冠服饰制度更加详备，等级制度也日益严格。 在古代极重礼制的传统下，服饰外在的制度构建与内在的礼仪设定，都会和政治格局及每个人的日常生活息息相关。 本文选取宋代为个案，主要以宋代服饰制度及时人服饰好尚为研究对象，针对宋代服饰“保守”与否的问题，来发掘宋代服饰史作为服饰文化在特定历史时期的发展规律和脉络。本文力图从论题、而非从宋代既定的服饰制度出发，来深入讨论。为此本文的论述主要围绕两条主线进行，一是本民族服饰制度自身的继承和改进，及其常服的礼服化趋势；二是少数民族服饰文化对中原民族服饰文化的影响。 文章共分七部分。首先在绪论部分对宋代服饰“拘谨”“保守”之说提出疑问，然后分五章，第一章对宋代服饰文化发展的时代背景作简要介绍，重点突出宋代纺织业的发展，及纺织技术和工艺的提高。接下来的四章为本文的主要论述部分，分别从冕服、朝服、公服、胡服及奇装异服等五个方面，对宋代服饰制度、服饰文化的民族交流以及服饰好尚等作深入研究，从而提出宋代服饰文化四种发展创新模式： 其一是传统礼服制度改进，主要体现在祭服和朝服制度的发展。冕服和朝服是宋代服饰文化中最具传承和“守旧”意味的部分，事实上这部分并不是一成不变的，它仍然在根据时代的变化不断进行制度的改进。继承中见发展是古代服饰文化最重要的发展模式之一。 其二是常服的礼服化，主要体现在宋代公服的发展。宋代公服乃唐代常服经过“礼服化”过程改进而来。常服的礼服化过程并非简单的服饰文化的纵向继承性发展，同时存在对异族服饰文化的吸收即胡服的常服化。 其三是异族服饰文化的存在与充斥，主要体现在胡服的影响。宋廷屡次发布
[Abstract]:The development of clothing has a long history in China. For thousands of years, the Chinese people have created numerous costumes with Chinese characteristics, adding brilliant glory to the Chinese culture. The dress and dress system of the Chinese nationality appeared in the period of Xia and Shang dynasties, and gradually became perfect in the Zhou Dynasty, and was brought into the category of "rule of etiquette", and became the tool of "Zhaoming points, distinguish the prestige", superior to the noble and inferior, each has its own difference. From then on, the imperial concubine, the public-Qing 100-official dress system more detailed, the hierarchy is also increasingly strict. Under the tradition of emphasizing the etiquette system in ancient times, the external system construction of dress and the inherent etiquette setting are closely related to the political pattern and the daily life of everyone. This article selects the Song Dynasty as the case, mainly takes the Song Dynasty clothing system as the research object, aiming at the Song Dynasty clothing "conservative" question, To explore the Song Dynasty dress history as a clothing culture in a specific historical period of development law and context. This article tries to discuss deeply from the topic, not from the established dress system of Song Dynasty. For this reason, this paper mainly focuses on two main lines, one is the inheritance and improvement of the national dress system itself, and the trend of dress, and the other is the influence of the ethnic costume culture on the national costume culture of the Central Plains. The article is divided into seven parts. Firstly, in the introduction part, the author questions the theory of "restraint" and "conservatism" in the dress of the Song Dynasty, and then divides into five chapters. The first chapter briefly introduces the background of the development of the clothing culture in the Song Dynasty, with emphasis on the development of the textile industry in the Song Dynasty. And the improvement of textile technology and technology. The next four chapters are the main parts of this paper, respectively, from the coronation, court, public, Hu and strange clothing and other five aspects of the Song Dynasty clothing system, costume culture and national exchange, as well as clothing, and so on for in-depth research. Thus, it puts forward four innovative modes of development of dress culture in Song Dynasty: one is the improvement of traditional dress system, which is mainly reflected in the development of sacrificial clothing and imperial dress system. Mian and Chao are the most inheritable and "old-fashioned" parts of the dress culture of the Song Dynasty. In fact, this part is not inflexible, and it is still improving the system according to the changes of the times. Inheritance and development is one of the most important development models of ancient costume culture. The second is the formal dress, mainly reflected in the development of the Song Dynasty. The Song Dynasty public uniform is the Tang Dynasty ordinary dress through the "dress" process to improve. The formal dress process of ordinary clothing is not simply the vertical succession development of dress culture, and there exists the absorption of foreign dress culture, that is, the ordinary clothing of Hu Fu. The third is the existence and flooding of foreign dress culture, mainly reflected in the influence of Hu-fu. The Song Dynasty has repeatedly issued
【学位授予单位】：浙江大学
【学位级别】：博士
【学位授予年份】：2006
【分类号】：K244
本文编号：2304717
[Abstract]:The development of clothing has a long history in China. For thousands of years, the Chinese people have created numerous costumes with Chinese characteristics, adding brilliant glory to the Chinese culture. The dress and dress system of the Chinese nationality appeared in the period of Xia and Shang dynasties, and gradually became perfect in the Zhou Dynasty, and was brought into the category of "rule of etiquette", and became the tool of "Zhaoming points, distinguish the prestige", superior to the noble and inferior, each has its own difference. From then on, the imperial concubine, the public-Qing 100-official dress system more detailed, the hierarchy is also increasingly strict. Under the tradition of emphasizing the etiquette system in ancient times, the external system construction of dress and the inherent etiquette setting are closely related to the political pattern and the daily life of everyone. This article selects the Song Dynasty as the case, mainly takes the Song Dynasty clothing system as the research object, aiming at the Song Dynasty clothing "conservative" question, To explore the Song Dynasty dress history as a clothing culture in a specific historical period of development law and context. This article tries to discuss deeply from the topic, not from the established dress system of Song Dynasty. For this reason, this paper mainly focuses on two main lines, one is the inheritance and improvement of the national dress system itself, and the trend of dress, and the other is the influence of the ethnic costume culture on the national costume culture of the Central Plains. The article is divided into seven parts. Firstly, in the introduction part, the author questions the theory of "restraint" and "conservatism" in the dress of the Song Dynasty, and then divides into five chapters. The first chapter briefly introduces the background of the development of the clothing culture in the Song Dynasty, with emphasis on the development of the textile industry in the Song Dynasty. And the improvement of textile technology and technology. The next four chapters are the main parts of this paper, respectively, from the coronation, court, public, Hu and strange clothing and other five aspects of the Song Dynasty clothing system, costume culture and national exchange, as well as clothing, and so on for in-depth research. Thus, it puts forward four innovative modes of development of dress culture in Song Dynasty: one is the improvement of traditional dress system, which is mainly reflected in the development of sacrificial clothing and imperial dress system. Mian and Chao are the most inheritable and "old-fashioned" parts of the dress culture of the Song Dynasty. In fact, this part is not inflexible, and it is still improving the system according to the changes of the times. Inheritance and development is one of the most important development models of ancient costume culture. The second is the formal dress, mainly reflected in the development of the Song Dynasty. The Song Dynasty public uniform is the Tang Dynasty ordinary dress through the "dress" process to improve. The formal dress process of ordinary clothing is not simply the vertical succession development of dress culture, and there exists the absorption of foreign dress culture, that is, the ordinary clothing of Hu Fu. The third is the existence and flooding of foreign dress culture, mainly reflected in the influence of Hu-fu. The Song Dynasty has repeatedly issued
【学位授予单位】：浙江大学
【学位级别】：博士
【学位授予年份】：2006
【分类号】：K244
【引证文献】
相关期刊论文 前1条
1 武婷婷;;辽、宋、夏、金婚礼服饰及其礼俗内涵研究综述[J];黑龙江史志;2013年03期
相关博士学位论文 前1条
1 亓延;近代山东服饰研究[D];江南大学;2012年
相关硕士学位论文 前5条
1 李钊;科技的部分领域对北宋音乐的影响研究[D];中国艺术研究院;2009年
2 邬文霞;敦煌石窟唐五代官员画像之服饰研究[D];兰州大学;2010年
3 张琳琳;从感性到理性：胡文化在唐宋内地传播的不同境遇[D];陕西师范大学;2010年
4 谢婧;唐宋“禁令”研究[D];四川师范大学;2010年
5 王春慧;唐代服章制度与敦煌赐紫研究[D];西北师范大学;2012年
本文编号：2304717
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