中国传统盘扣的造型与应用研究

发布时间：2018-05-27 02:07

本文选题：中国传统盘扣 + 结构造型　；参考：《北京服装学院》2017年硕士论文

【摘要】：盘扣作为重要的中国传统服饰元素之一,因其具有功能性和装饰性而被广泛运用。盘扣由远古的结绳系带发展而来,春秋战国时期,戎装上出现皮制盘扣,盛唐常服中出现盘扣雏形,逐渐使用于宋、元时期,明朝在延续直扣的同时,出现了金属、玉石等材质的各式子母扣。以上时期的门襟闭合件均以系带为主,盘扣为辅。至清代,盘扣替代系带成为我国服装的主流门襟闭合件,清末,软盘花扣普及；民国时期盘扣的发展到达巅峰,实心硬盘花扣盛行,沿用至今。前人的研究中,对于盘扣的缘起与发展多为明清之后,而对明之前的研究较少,关于造型结构变化研究的著作更少。本文通过对中国传统盘扣藏品实物、文献资料的研究,归纳整理盘扣的造型结构,总结出盘扣经历了一个从材质、造型结构到意蕴表达的全面演变过程,是一个从功能性到装饰性的发展过程。另外,本文通过对中国传统盘扣演变过程的研究,总结出其发展演变特点,在此基础上分析中国传统盘扣的功能性和装饰性特点,进而研究其创新方法,从而为中国传统盘扣造型结构的传承与创新提供合理的依据。本文希望对中国传统盘扣演变和创新的研究可以为后来的研究提供更多参考。
[Abstract]:As one of the important traditional Chinese dress elements, disc buckle is widely used because of its function and decoration. The plate buckle was developed from the ancient knot rope tie belt. In the Spring and Autumn and warring States period, the leather plate buckle appeared on the military uniform, and the embryonic form of the disc buckle appeared in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. It was gradually used in the Song and Yuan dynasties, and the Ming Dynasty appeared metal while continuing the direct buckling. Jade and other materials of all kinds of child button. The above period of the door closure to tie-belt-based, disc-buckle auxiliary. To the Qing Dynasty, the disc buckle instead of tie belt became the mainstream door closure of our country's clothing. In the late Qing Dynasty, floppy disk buckle was popularized. During the Republic of China, the development of disk buckle reached its peak, solid hard disk buckle prevailed, and it is still in use up to now. In previous studies, most of the origin and development of the disc buckle was after the Ming and Qing dynasties, but the research before the Ming Dynasty was less, and the research on the change of the modeling structure was even less. In this paper, through the study of the material objects and documents of the traditional Chinese disc buckle collection, the modeling structure of the disc buckle is summed up, and the overall evolution process from the material quality, the shape structure to the implication expression is summed up. Is a functional to decorative development process. In addition, based on the study of the evolution process of Chinese traditional disc buckle, this paper summarizes the characteristics of its development and evolution, and then analyzes the functional and decorative characteristics of Chinese traditional disc buckle, and then studies its innovative methods. Thus, it provides reasonable basis for the inheritance and innovation of Chinese traditional disc-buckle modeling structure. This paper hopes that the research on the evolution and innovation of Chinese traditional disc buckle can provide more reference for later research.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.498.2

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