黎锦传统织造技艺研究与设计实践

发布时间：2018-01-01 05:24

本文关键词：黎锦传统织造技艺研究与设计实践　出处：《北京服装学院》2017年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：黎锦作为一种海南传统手工艺品,以其独特的审美和艺术价值闻名于世,其高超的织造工艺技术在中国纺织科学技术史上占有重要地位,具有极高的历史、研究价值。本文主要是从传统织造技艺的角度来研究黎族织锦,作者实地考察了海南黎区的黎锦传统织造工艺,先从黎锦的产生与发展、原料与加工和生产工序来对黎锦概述,然后又对原始踞腰织机的构成、传统织造技艺的工艺原理来阐释,深入研究三种最典型的织造技艺,即纬线提花正面织锦：通经回纬提埋花工艺；纬线提花反面织锦：通经断纬挖织花工艺；经线提花正面织锦：提央织锦工艺。从专业的角度剖析了纺织状态的原理,将其绘制成分步骤的示意图,力求直观明了地阐释此项中国首批急需保护的非物质文化遗产,这对于黎锦织造工艺技术的保护和传承、研究和发展都具有重要的现实意义。基于对黎锦传统织造技艺的研究,本次设计实践“经纬”的灵感来源主要是黎锦经纬纱线织造时的交织、沉浮与排列状态。这个系列构筑在笔者对于哲学认识论的探索以及关于黎锦织造时经纬纱线交织状态本质的分析,整个系列结合了传统男装工艺与现代设计理念,是一次对新时代男装的探索实践。
[Abstract]:As a traditional handicraft in Hainan, Li Jin is famous for its unique aesthetic and artistic value. Its superb weaving technology plays an important role in the history of Chinese textile science and technology and has a very high history. This paper mainly studies Li nationality brocade from the point of view of traditional weaving technique. The author investigates Li brocade's traditional weaving technology in Li District, Hainan Province, first from the origin and development of Li brocade. Raw materials and processing and production processes to outline Li Jin, and then to the original loom loom composition, traditional weaving technology to explain the principle, in-depth study of the three most typical weaving techniques. That is, weft jacquard front brocade: warp back weft lifting and burying process; Weft jacquard reverse brocade: warp cut weft digging weaving process; Warp jacquard front brocade: tapestry technology. From a professional point of view to analyze the principle of the textile state, drawing the composition of the steps of the schematic diagram. Try to explain this China's first batch of intangible cultural heritage in urgent need of protection, which for Li Jin weaving technology protection and inheritance. The research and development are of great practical significance. Based on the study of Li Jin's traditional weaving techniques, the inspiration of the design practice of "longitude and weft" is mainly the interweaving of Li Jin warp and weft yarns. Ups and downs and arrangement. This series is based on the author's exploration of philosophical epistemology and the analysis of the nature of the interwoven state of warp and weft yarns in Li Jin weaving. The whole series combines the traditional menswear craft with the modern design idea, is a exploration practice to the new era menswear.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：J523.6

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