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云南新平花腰傣服饰的装饰艺术研究

发布时间:2019-02-15 20:50
【摘要】:居住在云南新平彝族傣族自治县的傣族,其服饰别具特色,尤其是腰部的装饰繁复瑰丽,被其它民族称为“花腰傣”;他们是云南傣族的支系之一,自身又分为傣雅、傣洒、傣卡三个支系;与西双版纳和德宏的傣族不同,他们笃信原始宗教,但对其服饰各个要素和各个支系的异同没有文字上相关的记录,却以口耳相传、技艺相习、以不同的材质和工艺手段等形式,传承着自己的族规祖训,吸收着外族的优秀文化。 本论文以花腰傣服饰为研究对象,通过文献搜集、实地调研、列表对比等多种研究方法,运用装饰艺术理论,结合民族学、民俗学、美学等相关理论,对新平花腰傣三个支系服饰的制作工艺、服装款型、色彩配置、图案构成、装饰品,以及服饰在人生礼仪的不同表征列项对比。通过表格对三个支系在不同类型和时期的服饰要素中所体现的装饰艺术的手法、题材、样式和风格等方面及其文化内涵进行归纳总结,是本文力图凸现的特色。 此外,论文从审美意识、审美表现及审美文化三方面对花腰傣服饰进行分析,从影响和制约花腰傣服饰艺术的民族文化心理的表现中,归纳出花腰傣服饰艺术的融合精湛技艺和非凡想象的工艺美、承载着民族历史文化的古朴美、具有繁缛绣缋和高贵华丽的装饰美、兼备具象造型和抽象造型的意象美四个审美特征,总结出花腰傣服饰中所含有的审美文化象征及涵义。对花腰傣服饰艺术的传承与在现代艺术中的应用,进行了思考和探索,并尝试从中提取具体民族艺术元素进行了实例设计。 从本论文的研究和分析来看,对花腰傣服饰中的装饰艺术研究除了对其图形结构、形式法则、风格类型等视觉形式方面的研究外,还需要以民族文化阐释和审美对其装饰美学的特性和艺术价值等方面进行理论性的研究。首先,本论文对花腰傣女性服饰艺术进行一个整合性研究,对花腰傣服饰艺术及装饰文化形成整体性认识。然后,从艺术角度进行分析,把服饰形态的结构与人的认知及情感结构有机的结合并表现出来,其中蕴涵了民族及地域文化中丰富的文化意蕴;从文化阐释角度进行探讨,有助于认识其服饰审美文化系统的构成及其独有的文化价值,并以这丰厚的文化底蕴来进行传承、创新。
[Abstract]:The Dai people living in Xinping Yi Dai Autonomous County in Yunnan Province have distinctive costumes, especially the adornment of the waist, which is called "Huayao Dai" by other ethnic groups. They are one of the branches of Dai nationality in Yunnan, and they are also divided into three branches: Dai Ya, Dai sa and Dai Ka. Unlike the Dai people in Xishuangbanna and Dehong, they believe in primitive religions, but they have no written records of the similarities and differences between the various elements and branches of their costumes. In the form of different material and craft means, inherits own clan rules and regulations, absorbs the foreign nationality outstanding culture. This paper takes Huayao Dai dress as the research object, through literature collection, field investigation, list comparison and other research methods, using decorative art theory, combined with ethnology, folklore, aesthetics and other related theories. This paper makes a comparison of the production technology, the style, the coloring, the pattern, the adornment, and the different representation of the dress in the life etiquette of the three branches of Xinping Huayao Dai. This paper summarizes the decorative art techniques, themes, styles, styles and cultural connotations of the three branches in the different types and periods of clothing elements through tables, which is the characteristic of this paper. In addition, the thesis analyzes the Huayao Dai costumes from the aspects of aesthetic consciousness, aesthetic expression and aesthetic culture, and analyzes the expression of the national cultural psychology that influences and restricts the art of Huayao Dai costume. Summing up the fusion of exquisite craftsmanship and extraordinary imaginative craftsmanship of Huayao Dai costume art, bearing the simple beauty of the history and culture of the nation, with elaborate embroidery and magnificent decorative beauty, The aesthetic features of image beauty of figurative modeling and abstract modeling are combined, and the aesthetic cultural symbols and meanings contained in Huayao Dai clothing are summarized. This paper discusses the inheritance and application of Huayao Dai costume art in modern art, and tries to extract the elements of national art from it for example design. According to the research and analysis of this thesis, the research on decorative art in Huayao Dai clothing is not only the research on its graphic structure, formal rules, style types and other visual forms, but also the research on the decorative art of Huayao Dai clothing. It is also necessary to theoretically study the characteristics and artistic value of decorative aesthetics in terms of national cultural interpretation and aesthetic appreciation. First of all, this paper carries on a comprehensive research on the dress art of Huayao Dai women, and forms a holistic understanding of the dress art and decorative culture of Huayao Dai. Then, from the angle of art, it combines the structure of dress form with the cognitive and emotional structure of people, which contains rich cultural implication in national and regional culture. From the perspective of cultural interpretation, it is helpful to understand the composition of its costume aesthetic culture system and its unique cultural value, and to inherit and innovate with this rich cultural heritage.
【学位授予单位】:昆明理工大学
【学位级别】:硕士
【学位授予年份】:2009
【分类号】:J523.5

【参考文献】

相关期刊论文 前2条

1 王声跃,严舒红;云南少数民族服饰景观地域特征探析[J];人文地理;2003年03期

2 吕卫平;中国尚黑美学探微[J];装饰;2004年05期



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