何处寻衣：书写泰雅贝珠衣的传记

发布时间：2018-12-07 11:03

【摘要】：贝珠衣以其精巧的工艺和独特的象征意义而被视为泰雅族传统纺织的代表,纵观自十九世纪以来的相关研究,侧重于贝珠衣的形制和功能的探讨。然而,却鲜有将贝珠衣置于时间脉络中,对其文化意义的变迁加以阐释。本文以泰雅贝珠衣为中心,沿着它的生命轨迹探讨在殖民以及后殖民时代,不同文化背景中的人如何被“物”连结在一起,以及在时间维度下贝珠衣文化意义的流变。文章对考古学与人类学、人与物、时间与空间进行三个层面的关照。首先,以贝珠衣客体形态为出发点,借助于对国内馆藏贝珠衣标本的形制分析,对其制作方法、形制特征有最为直观的了解。其目的在于弥补人类学在物质文化研究中对客体的“物”具有的特定形态的忽视。其次,基于对人／物分离的反思,以及物质文化研究新的研究取向的启发下,透过对“物”的观察来分析人与人、人与社会、社会与社会之间的关系。尤其是在殖民和后殖民语境下,不同力量在互动过程中对贝珠衣意义的塑造。最后,贝珠衣从诞生地,通过交换、购买等方式进入博物馆,在时间维度下探讨空间转换,有助于在特定的场景内对贝珠衣文化意义进行阐释,揭示贝珠衣在流通领域中“路径偏移”的机制和动力。文化与权力之间形成的张力是构成贝珠衣“路径偏移”的重要机制,权力借助于文化来实现,并通过知识来掩盖不平等的权力关系；权力受制于文化并被文化形塑,强势话语强加于本土文化的同时也不得不做出调适。殖民语境下的贝珠衣及其他原住民物品被用来构建相对于西方或日本的“他者”意象。同样,原住民物品也被反殖民统治的国人用来作为对抗殖民力量的工具,通过“再情景化”实现贝珠衣文化意义的再塑造。因此,在“情景化”、“再情景化”的过程中,可以发现历史脉络中结构的转换。
[Abstract]:Beaded coat is regarded as the representative of the traditional textile of the Atayal nationality because of its exquisite craft and unique symbolic meaning. The related research since the nineteenth century has focused on the shape and function of the bead coat. However, the bead coat is rarely placed in the context of time to explain the changes of its cultural significance. This paper focuses on the Taiyabei beaded coat and explores how people from different cultural backgrounds are connected by "things" in the colonial and post-colonial times along its life path, and the evolution of the cultural meaning of the beaded coat in the time dimension. This paper deals with archaeology and anthropology, people and objects, time and space. First of all, with the object form of bead coat as the starting point, with the help of the analysis of the shape of the specimen collected in domestic library, the author has the most intuitionistic understanding of its making method and shape characteristic. Its purpose is to make up for anthropology's neglect of the specific form of object in the study of material culture. Secondly, based on the introspection of the separation of human and material, and inspired by the new research orientation of material culture, the relationship among people, society, society and society is analyzed through the observation of "things". Especially in the context of colonization and post-colonization, different forces shape the meaning of bead in the process of interaction. Finally, the beaded coat from its birthplace, through exchange, purchase and other ways to enter the museum, in the time dimension to explore the spatial transformation, conducive to the interpretation of the cultural significance of shellfish clothing in a specific scene. It reveals the mechanism and motive force of "path deviation" in circulation field. The tension formed between culture and power is an important mechanism that constitutes the "path deviation" of Beizhu coat. Power is realized by means of culture, and the unequal power relationship is concealed by knowledge. Power is restricted by culture and shaped by culture. In colonial context, shellfish and other aboriginal objects are used to construct the "other" image relative to the West or Japan. In the same way, aboriginal articles are also used by anti-colonial Chinese as a tool against colonial power to remodel the cultural significance of shellfish clothing through "re-situational". Therefore, in the process of "situationalization" and "resitutionalization", the structural transformation in historical context can be found.
【学位授予单位】：中央民族大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2011
【分类号】：K876.9

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