论北宋中晚期汉族服饰之师古

发布时间：2018-04-13 20:18

本文选题：北宋中晚期 + 汉族服饰　；参考：《学术交流》2013年10期

【摘要】：在经历晚唐五代宋初时期的动荡之后,进入了相对稳定与安宁时期的北宋中晚期,随着商品经济的高度发展、社会阶层的快速重构、周邻少数民族文化的影响、奢靡生活风气的形成与兴盛,产生了一些新的服饰样式。然而,北宋王朝为了避免重蹈覆辙,为了重建和恢复封建社会意识形态秩序、维护和巩固封建皇权的地位,大力推行科举制度和以文治国的方针,尤其到了北宋中晚期,"重文轻武"的基本国策孕育着一个良好文化氛围的形成。因此,承袭前代服制、恢复传统汉制服饰仍为北宋中晚期汉族服饰发展主流。无论是士大夫阶层服饰,还是平民阶层服饰,都隐射出所处朝代服饰习俗的特色及世俗审美取向。
[Abstract]:After the turbulence in the late Tang and the five dynasties and the early Song Dynasty, it entered the middle and late period of the Northern Song Dynasty, which was relatively stable and tranquil. With the high development of the commodity economy, the rapid reconstruction of the social stratum, and the influence of the culture of the minority nationalities in the Zhou Dynasty,The formation and prosperity of extravagant lifestyle have produced some new dress styles.However, in order to avoid repeating the mistakes, to rebuild and restore the ideological order of feudal society and to maintain and consolidate the position of feudal imperial power, the Northern Song Dynasty vigorously carried out the imperial examination system and the policy of governing the country by culture.Especially in the middle and late Northern Song Dynasty, the basic national policy of "attaching importance to literature and less force" gave birth to a good cultural atmosphere.Therefore, the inheritance of the former generation clothing system, the restoration of traditional Han clothing is still the mainstream of Han costume development in the middle and late Northern Song Dynasty.The dress of the literati and officials, as well as that of the common people, reveals the characteristics and secular aesthetic orientation of the dress customs of the dynasty.
【作者单位】：苏州大学应用技术学院;
【基金】：2013年江苏省高校社科项目“基于传统文化资源的民族服饰创意产业发展研究”(2013SJB760038) 中国博士后特别资助基金项目“多元融合的中国古代妇女服饰”(2012T40488) 江苏省高校优势学科艺术学建设项目 “青蓝工程”项目
【分类号】：K244;TS941.1

【参考文献】