民俗学视域下的宋代金银饰品研究
发布时间：2018-11-06 20:18
【摘要】：黄金与白银是人类最早使用的金属之一,金银天生的魅力,加上人类工艺的精雕细琢,使之具有了财富和艺术的双重价值,成为人们竞相追逐的目标。金银饰品物件虽小,却与人贴身相伴,是人们彰显魅力与身份的最佳装饰品,是时代风尚的指向标,因此,一部金银饰品的研究史,是对一个时期生产力发展水平、物质文化及审美思想多方面历史风貌的反映。宋代商品经济迅速发展,金银饰品开始由皇家贵族走向普通平民,平民化是宋代金银饰品的重要时代特征。与前代相比,宋代金银饰品在类别及样式上都发生了变化,审美风尚的更迭是影响金银饰品类别与样式变化的主要因素,除此,制造工艺也对器物造型及装饰产生着直接的影响。宋代民俗环境为金银饰品提供了广阔的生存与发展空间,社会奢侈之风盛行,人们在服饰上追求标新立异促使金银饰品需求量的增加,同时金银饰品也更多的参与到婚嫁、丧葬、狎妓、育子、布施、人际交往、节日庆祝等民俗活动中,裹足在宋代开始成为一种风尚,由此导致女性审美及生活方式的变化也间接地推动了金银饰品的繁盛。金银饰品作为各类民俗活动的参与者,其纹样题材及图式安排上最突出的特点就是呈现出本土化风格,富有浓郁的生活气息,并与民俗信仰、民俗事项相结合,体现了雅俗共赏的民俗审美特点。宋代民间金银制造业发达,目前所发现的宋代金银饰品很大一部分都是出自民间金银匠人之手,这些金银饰品,纹饰华美、工艺细致精巧,充分显示了宋代民间金银匠人的聪明才智,也为元明时期民间金银细金工艺的进一步发展作了良好的铺垫,在发展过程中,宋代民间金银工艺还注重与其他材料、工艺相结合,充分发挥出金银工艺的特性与优点。宋代金银饰品的生产与经营必须依托于当时物质生产民俗大背景,由于较好的手工业发展体制,私营金银器饰作坊走向良性发展的道路,其生产与经营方式十分多样化,产品铭文的表现方式显示出当时的商品宣传风俗,金银技艺的传承方式又体现出工匠风俗。金银饰品的存在意义不仅仅是因为能够妆扮容貌、彰显身份财富,还在于其丰富的情感表达性及心理暗示性,除此,金银饰品的使用、佩戴还具有阶层性、地域性及扩布性特点,其类别与样式在流传过程中具有稳定性与变异性的特点,而这些都是民俗具有的基本特性,由此可见,宋代金银饰品与民俗文化之间存在着千丝万缕的关联。本文在实物考证、图像及文献检索的基础上,从民俗学的角度出发,诠释宋代金银饰品的样式、纹饰及工艺,并探讨由金银饰品所反映的宋代各个层面的民俗现象以及其呈现出来的民俗特性,展示宋代金银饰品及民俗文化的独特魅力与历史价值。
[Abstract]:Gold and silver are one of the earliest metals used by human beings. The natural charm of gold and silver, combined with the refinement of human craft, make them have the dual value of wealth and art, and become the goal of people chasing after each other. Although gold and silver ornaments are small, they are closely associated with people. They are the best adornment for people to show their charm and identity, and are the trend of the times. Therefore, a history of research on gold and silver ornaments is a development level of productivity in a period of time. Material culture and aesthetic thoughts reflect the historical features in many aspects. With the rapid development of commodity economy in Song Dynasty, gold and silver ornaments began to move from royal aristocrats to ordinary people. Compared with previous dynasties, gold and silver ornaments in Song Dynasty have changed in category and style, and the change of aesthetic style is the main factor that affects the change of gold and silver jewelry category and style. Manufacturing technology also has a direct impact on the shape and decoration of objects. The folk environment of the Song Dynasty provided broad living and development space for gold and silver ornaments. The prevailing social extravagance, people's pursuit of novelty in clothing led to an increase in the demand for gold and silver ornaments, and gold and silver ornaments were also more involved in marriage. In the folklore activities such as funeral, prostitute, child rearing, giving, interpersonal communication, festival celebration and so on, wrapping feet became a kind of custom in Song Dynasty, which led to the change of female aesthetic and life style, which also indirectly promoted the prosperity of gold and silver ornaments. Gold and silver ornaments, as participants in various folklore activities, have the most prominent features in their pattern themes and schematic arrangements, which are characterized by their native style, rich flavor of life, and combination with folk beliefs and folklore matters. It embodies the aesthetic characteristics of folklore. In the Song Dynasty, the folk gold and silver manufacturing industry developed. A large part of the gold and silver ornaments found in the Song Dynasty came from the hands of folk gold and silver craftsmen. These gold and silver ornaments were beautifully decorated with exquisite workmanship. It fully showed the wisdom and wisdom of the folk gold and silver craftsmen in the Song Dynasty, and also made a good foundation for the further development of the folk gold and silver fine gold craftsmanship in the Yuan and Ming dynasties. In the process of development, the folk gold and silver craftsmanship in the Song Dynasty also paid attention to combining with other materials and crafts. Give full play to the characteristics and advantages of gold and silver technology. The production and management of gold and silver ornaments in Song Dynasty had to rely on the background of folk custom of material production at that time. Due to the better developing system of handicraft industry and the way to the benign development of private gold and silver ornaments workshops, their production and management methods were very diversified. The expression of the product inscription shows the commodity propaganda custom at that time, and the inheritance of gold and silver skills reflects the craftsman's custom. The significance of gold and silver ornaments is not only because they can dress up and reveal their identity wealth, but also because of their rich emotional expression and psychological implication. In addition, the use and wearing of gold and silver ornaments also have class. Regional and spreading characteristics, its types and styles have the characteristics of stability and variability in the course of spreading, and these are the basic characteristics of folklore. Gold and silver ornaments in Song Dynasty are closely related to folk culture. On the basis of textual research, image and literature retrieval, this paper interprets the patterns, patterns and techniques of gold and silver ornaments in Song Dynasty from the perspective of folklore. The folklore phenomenon of Song Dynasty reflected by gold and silver ornaments and its folklore characteristics are discussed, and the unique charm and historical value of gold and silver ornaments and folk culture in Song Dynasty are demonstrated.
【学位授予单位】：江南大学
【学位级别】：博士
【学位授予年份】：2016
【分类号】：J526.1;K244
，
本文编号：2315358
[Abstract]:Gold and silver are one of the earliest metals used by human beings. The natural charm of gold and silver, combined with the refinement of human craft, make them have the dual value of wealth and art, and become the goal of people chasing after each other. Although gold and silver ornaments are small, they are closely associated with people. They are the best adornment for people to show their charm and identity, and are the trend of the times. Therefore, a history of research on gold and silver ornaments is a development level of productivity in a period of time. Material culture and aesthetic thoughts reflect the historical features in many aspects. With the rapid development of commodity economy in Song Dynasty, gold and silver ornaments began to move from royal aristocrats to ordinary people. Compared with previous dynasties, gold and silver ornaments in Song Dynasty have changed in category and style, and the change of aesthetic style is the main factor that affects the change of gold and silver jewelry category and style. Manufacturing technology also has a direct impact on the shape and decoration of objects. The folk environment of the Song Dynasty provided broad living and development space for gold and silver ornaments. The prevailing social extravagance, people's pursuit of novelty in clothing led to an increase in the demand for gold and silver ornaments, and gold and silver ornaments were also more involved in marriage. In the folklore activities such as funeral, prostitute, child rearing, giving, interpersonal communication, festival celebration and so on, wrapping feet became a kind of custom in Song Dynasty, which led to the change of female aesthetic and life style, which also indirectly promoted the prosperity of gold and silver ornaments. Gold and silver ornaments, as participants in various folklore activities, have the most prominent features in their pattern themes and schematic arrangements, which are characterized by their native style, rich flavor of life, and combination with folk beliefs and folklore matters. It embodies the aesthetic characteristics of folklore. In the Song Dynasty, the folk gold and silver manufacturing industry developed. A large part of the gold and silver ornaments found in the Song Dynasty came from the hands of folk gold and silver craftsmen. These gold and silver ornaments were beautifully decorated with exquisite workmanship. It fully showed the wisdom and wisdom of the folk gold and silver craftsmen in the Song Dynasty, and also made a good foundation for the further development of the folk gold and silver fine gold craftsmanship in the Yuan and Ming dynasties. In the process of development, the folk gold and silver craftsmanship in the Song Dynasty also paid attention to combining with other materials and crafts. Give full play to the characteristics and advantages of gold and silver technology. The production and management of gold and silver ornaments in Song Dynasty had to rely on the background of folk custom of material production at that time. Due to the better developing system of handicraft industry and the way to the benign development of private gold and silver ornaments workshops, their production and management methods were very diversified. The expression of the product inscription shows the commodity propaganda custom at that time, and the inheritance of gold and silver skills reflects the craftsman's custom. The significance of gold and silver ornaments is not only because they can dress up and reveal their identity wealth, but also because of their rich emotional expression and psychological implication. In addition, the use and wearing of gold and silver ornaments also have class. Regional and spreading characteristics, its types and styles have the characteristics of stability and variability in the course of spreading, and these are the basic characteristics of folklore. Gold and silver ornaments in Song Dynasty are closely related to folk culture. On the basis of textual research, image and literature retrieval, this paper interprets the patterns, patterns and techniques of gold and silver ornaments in Song Dynasty from the perspective of folklore. The folklore phenomenon of Song Dynasty reflected by gold and silver ornaments and its folklore characteristics are discussed, and the unique charm and historical value of gold and silver ornaments and folk culture in Song Dynasty are demonstrated.
【学位授予单位】：江南大学
【学位级别】：博士
【学位授予年份】：2016
【分类号】：J526.1;K244
，
本文编号：2315358
本文链接：https://www.wllwen.com/shekelunwen/zgtslw/2315358.html
