后现代“破”装饰手法在服装上的运用分析及研究

发布时间：2018-01-17 16:08

本文关键词：后现代“破”装饰手法在服装上的运用分析及研究　出处：《北京服装学院》2010年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：本文基于当代服装上以破烂为装饰的现象进行研究,分析“破”装饰手法的形制、应用和发展趋势,获得一定的设计指导意义,并利用研究结果自行设计实践。受后现代思潮反精英、反传统、去中心的影响,服装设计领域出现“破”装饰手法。经济的发达、社会的开放,环保和怀旧的心理要求,个性化的需要,品牌辨识度和设计感的增加都是后现代“破”装饰产生和发展的原因。它们通常表现为毛边、破洞、裂痕、滑丝或是做旧、补丁和破烂重叠。在装饰位置上,或强调功能与装饰并重,或强调高调但不低俗的裸露,借以达到体现性感的目的。比较传统装饰手法而言,后现代“破”装饰不具有吉祥祈福的含义,更加注重视觉冲击,而且不同装饰手法混用,为达装饰目的,不择破烂手段。通过分析以乞丐装起家的川久保玲作品、维维安.韦斯特伍德的朋克感破烂、打破结构的侯赛因.卡拉扬作品和夏奈尔品牌上的优雅高贵“破”装饰,兼以比较街头最大众、最新潮、最实穿的后现代“破”装饰运用,体现了本身破烂残缺但又五光十色的后现代“破”装饰手法求新、求变、求异的装饰规律,并在个人的设计作品中进行了一定的实践。
[Abstract]:Based on the study of the phenomenon of rags as decoration on contemporary clothing, this paper analyzes the shape, application and development trend of "broken" decoration techniques, and obtains certain design guidance significance. The research results are used to design the practice. Under the influence of anti-elite, anti-tradition and centeredness of postmodernism, the field of clothing design is characterized by "broken" decoration techniques, economic development, social openness, environmental protection and nostalgic psychological requirements, and individualized needs. The increase in brand recognition and design sense is the reason for the emergence and development of post-modern "broken" decoration. They are usually shown as edges, holes, cracks, slips or old, patched and ragged overlaps. Or the emphasis on function and decoration, or the emphasis on high profile but not vulgar nudity, in order to achieve the purpose of sexy. Compared with traditional decoration techniques, post-modern "broken" decoration does not have the meaning of auspicious blessing. Pay more attention to visual shock, and different decorative techniques mixed, for the purpose of decoration, do not choose the means of rags. Through the analysis of the beggar clothes of Kawabo Ling works, Vivian Westwood's punk sense of rags. The broken structure of Hussein Karajan works and Chanel brand elegant "broken" decoration, and to compare the street the most popular, the most fashionable, the most solid wear of post-modern "broken" decoration. It embodies the decorative law of its own ragged and incomplete but colorful post-modern "broken" decoration techniques, which seeks for new, changing and different decoration methods, and has carried on certain practice in individual design works.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2010
【分类号】：J523.5

【引证文献】