二十世纪上半叶的“鸿翔”及上海时装业的特征分析
本文关键词: 民国 上海 时装业 鸿翔 出处:《东华大学》2013年硕士论文 论文类型:学位论文
【摘要】:二十世纪上半叶的上海时装业在中国时装发展史上占有重要历史地位。其特殊的时代背景和产业组织形式,使民国时期上海时装业的产业发展呈现出鲜明的产业特色。本论文以二十世纪上半叶上海最具影响力的时装业的典型杰出代表——鸿翔时装公司为重点研究对象,并由此推及上海时装业的特征,以详实的历史材料、研究文献、当事人口述资料为依据,结合设计学、服装学,以及产业经济学等多学科相关理论和方法进行研究。本论文根据时间节点,将鸿翔时装公司所在的上海时装业纵向划分为民国时期及二十世纪五十年代两大历史时段。首先,在总体概述民国时期上海时代背景、文化环境的前提下,概述了鸿翔所在时装业的基本情况。通过经营规模、服务流程、营销策略、管理模式、店铺陈列、主要消费群体等多角度的研究分析,总结出民国时期上海地区鸿翔时装公司的发展状况。鸿翔时装公司以其独特的经营规模、设计及技术水平展示了其所代表的时代特征,其创新的外部营销手段、相对完善的内部人才机制均领先于行业水平,主要消费群体在商店经营过程和发展中逐渐定位于中产阶级女性。继而,本文以上海鸿翔时装公司为研究基础,通过对以鸿翔时装公司为代表的上海时装业的产业布局、产业管理、市场行为、政策导向、产业发展等五大方面来分析行业特征,并通过对同时期华资、外资同行业商店的横向多方位比较,解析民国时期上海地区的时装企业是如何通过产品的差异化、营销手段的多元化来实现盈利,同时对时装行业公会成熟发展而催生出的时装商店的分级制度,和以鸿翔为代表的“八大名店”的竞合关系进行分析。最后,本文对二十世纪五十年代公私合营制度下,企业所有权及性质的改变对于鸿翔时装公司的品牌定位、营销手段等方面产生的深远影响,及其所在时装行业工商业的分、合变迁进行梳理。通过对二十世纪上半叶以鸿翔时装公司为代表的上海时装业的深入研究,本文总结出特殊时代背景下上海时装业的整体特征,以及不同时期本土服装品牌发展的有效路径及经验。这不仅有利于我们探索本土老字号时装企业在新时期的发展路径,对于上海乃至中国时装产业战略布局具有深远意义。
[Abstract]:In 20th century, the fashion industry in Shanghai occupied an important historical position in the history of fashion development in China. This paper focuses on the typical outstanding representative of Shanghai's most influential fashion industry in 20th century-Hongxiang Fashion Company. And thus extrapolating the characteristics of the fashion industry in Shanghai, on the basis of detailed historical materials, research documents and oral materials of the parties concerned, combined with design and clothing studies, According to the time node, the Shanghai fashion industry, where Hongxiang Fashion Company is located, is divided into two historical periods: the period of the Republic of China and the period of 1950s. Based on a general overview of the background and cultural environment of the era of Shanghai during the Republic of China, this paper summarizes the basic situation of the fashion industry in which Hongxiang is located. Through business scale, service flow, marketing strategy, management model, store display, etc. This paper summarizes the development of Hongxiang Fashion Company in Shanghai during the period of the Republic of China. With its unique business scale, design and technical level, Hongxiang Fashion Company shows the characteristics of its era. Its innovative external marketing means, relatively perfect internal talent mechanism are ahead of the industry level, the main consumer groups are gradually positioned in the store business process and development of middle-class women. Based on the research of Shanghai Hongxiang Fashion Company, this paper analyzes the characteristics of Shanghai fashion industry through the following five aspects: industrial layout, industrial management, market behavior, policy orientation and industrial development. And through the horizontal comparison of the same period of Chinese capital, foreign capital and industry stores, this paper analyzes how fashion enterprises in Shanghai made profits through product differentiation and diversification of marketing methods during the period of the Republic of China. At the same time, the paper analyzes the classification system of fashion shops, which is produced by the mature development of fashion industry guild, and the competitive relationship between the "eight famous stores" represented by Hongxiang. Finally, this paper analyzes the system of public-private partnership in 1950s. The changes in the ownership and nature of enterprises have had a profound impact on the brand positioning and marketing methods of Hongxiang Fashion Company, as well as on the division of industry and commerce in the fashion industry. Through the in-depth study of Shanghai fashion industry represented by Hongxiang Fashion Company in the first half of 20th century, this paper summarizes the overall characteristics of Shanghai fashion industry under the background of special times. And the effective path and experience of local fashion brand development in different periods, which is not only helpful for us to explore the development path of local old fashion enterprises in the new period, but also has far-reaching significance for the strategic layout of fashion industry in Shanghai and even in China.
【学位授予单位】:东华大学
【学位级别】:硕士
【学位授予年份】:2013
【分类号】:F426.86;K26
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