湘西苗族服饰美学与时装设计应用研究

发布时间：2018-03-16 13:30

本文选题：湘西　切入点：苗族　出处：《湖南科技大学》2012年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：湘西苗族服饰研究是源于20世纪初民俗学者对湘西苗族的实地考察。湘西苗族文化是巫楚文化的重要分支，古时其文化艺术特色便与楚国接近。湘西苗族与汉族交往频繁，其服饰中的一些特定图案如龙纹、凤纹深受汉服的影响。他们生活在崇山峻岭之间，古时的战争迁徙、神话故事与巫教思想使他们的世界观与价值观皆与自然相关。其服装中的枫树纹、蝴蝶纹、鱼纹、盘瓠纹等代表了苗族人对自然的崇敬与渴望多子多福的朴素思想。湘西苗族服饰的色彩与制作工艺均来源于自然。其服饰的图案与饰物的配搭也是抽象化了的自然景物，再对其进行灵活的创造而产生的。湘西苗族人尤其喜爱“蝶恋花”“花与鸟”系列的图案，其服装的前襟、袖口、腰带、围裙、裤腿与绣花鞋中都体现了这一主题，这是苗族人向往美满生活的象征。湘西苗服的审美特征来源于苗服的自然美、创造美与和谐美，他们将现实世界与想象世界相互结合，成就了现在多彩多姿的湘西苗服。在现代的时装设计中，有大量的中国元素出现。尤其是少数民族元素的大量使用，带动了新的流行趋势。在上海滩、裂帛与Vivienne Tam等品牌时装的设计中，湘西元素中的蝴蝶纹、染布等大量被使用，使湘西苗族服饰元素登上了世界T台，被更多的人所接受。但是湘西苗服的本身却面临消失的危险，保护湘西苗服这一“活化石”成为当务之急。将商业模式与本土服饰设计相结合，走品牌化路线，，将是湘西苗服得以保存下去的可行出路。
[Abstract]:The study on the clothing of the Miao nationality in Western Hunan originated from the field investigation of the Miao nationality in the west of Hunan by folklore scholars at the beginning of 20th century. Xiangxi Miao culture is an important branch of the Wichu-Chu culture, and its cultural and artistic characteristics are close to that of the State of Chu in ancient times. Certain patterns in their costumes, such as dragon lines and Phoenix patterns, were deeply influenced by Han clothing. They lived between mountains and mountains, and they lived in ancient wars and migrations. Mythical stories and witchcraft thoughts make their world outlook and values related to nature. The maple, butterfly, fish and panhu patterns in their clothing represent the simple thought of the Miao people's reverence for nature and their desire for more children and more blessings. The color and craftsmanship of the Miao costume in western Hunan come from nature. The matching of the patterns and ornaments of their costumes is also an abstract natural scene. The Miao people in Xiangxi are especially fond of the pattern of "Butterfly Flower" and "Flower and Bird" series. The front edge, cuff, belt, apron, trousers leg and embroidered shoes all reflect this theme. This is the symbol of the Miao people's yearning for a happy life. The aesthetic characteristics of the Miao suit in Xiangxi come from the natural beauty of the Miao suit and the beauty of creation and harmony. They combine the real world with the imaginary world and achieve the colorful Miao suit of Xiangxi now. In modern fashion design, there are a large number of Chinese elements, especially the large use of minority elements, which has led to a new popular trend. In the fashion design of brands such as Shanghai Beach, split Silk and Vivienne Tam, the butterfly lines in the elements of Xiangxi, Dyeing cloth and other clothing elements have been used in large numbers, which has made the Miao dress elements of Xiangxi appear on the world catwalk and accepted by more people. However, the Xiangxi Miao clothing itself is in danger of disappearing. It is urgent to protect the "living fossil" of Xiangxi Miao suit. It is a feasible way to keep the Miao suit in Xiangxi by combining the commercial model with the local dress design and taking the brand route.
【学位授予单位】：湖南科技大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.5

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