鄂伦春族服饰文化研究

发布时间：2018-10-26 11:07

【摘要】：服饰是了解民族文化的一个重要侧面，是没有文字的历史文献。不同的自然环境、生产和生活方式造成了不同的民族性格和民族心理，从而形成了不同的服饰风格和服饰特点，更创造出了属于自己特色的独特的服饰文化。鄂伦春族，是我国东北地区最古老的民族之一，是一个以迁徙游猎为主要生活方式的民族，他们世世代代生活在大小兴安岭的茫茫林海中，被称为“山岭上的人”，“使用驯鹿的人”，鄂伦春族早期以狩猎文化为主的服饰文化，显示出民族的风俗文化和历史背景的标志，是一种原始性与自然性的和谐应用。清朝以后，布匹传入，由于价格昂贵，少数人穿着布衣，多数人还是选择毛皮服饰。到本世纪50年代鄂伦春人才下山生活，其服饰也由毛皮服饰逐步改变成布衣棉衣，但是样式还是延续了毛皮服饰的风格。而今天的鄂伦春人，日常生活服饰已经基本被汉化，但在自己的节日里，各地的鄂伦春族人都会穿起自己的民族服饰，来展示鄂伦春民族服饰的艺术魅力，他们以此方式来保护和传承着自己民族的服饰文化。鄂伦春族艺术中的“狍皮制作技艺”已被列为我国非物质文化遗产，以此看出研究鄂伦春族服饰具有的划时代意义。鄂伦春服饰的礼服化和商品化发展的趋势不容忽视，对鄂伦春服饰的的保护也刻不容缓，而鄂伦春服饰的所体现的多重价值（美学价值，文化价值，学术研究价值）也都十分重要。本论文通过在鄂伦春族聚居地的实地考察和了解，整理出大量的图片、资料，为鄂伦春族服饰文化研究奠定了理论基础，首先论述了鄂伦春族地理环境、历史发展以及服饰文化的起源，然后对鄂伦春族服饰进行概述，即：从头衣，身衣，，脚衣，足衣，到配饰及其萨满服和神帽等进行逐一讲解后，再对其服饰和配饰的造型，颜色，图案及其装饰进行分析，最后对鄂伦春民族服饰文化的传承保护及其价值进行阐述。论文建立在实地调查研究的基础上，运用服饰学理论明确了鄂伦春民族服饰研究的价值之所在。以民族服饰的形制研究为出发点，全面论述鄂伦春民族服饰的起源、分类、造型、图案、色彩、装饰、以及发展趋势等，并从保护与传承的角度探讨鄂伦春民族服饰的生机和发展，在更好的适应当今社会的前提下保存并延续鄂伦春民族服饰服饰文化的丰富内涵。
[Abstract]:Costume is an important aspect of understanding national culture, is a historical document without words. The different natural environment, production and life style have caused different national character and national psychology, thus formed different dress style and clothing characteristic, and created the unique dress culture which belongs to own characteristic. The Oroqun nationality, one of the oldest ethnic groups in the northeast of China, is a people whose main way of life is migration and hunting. They have lived in the vast forest sea of the Great Xing'an Mountains for generations, and are called "people on the mountains." "the people who use reindeer", the dress culture of the early Oroqian nationality, which is mainly hunting culture, shows the symbol of the national custom culture and historical background, and is a harmonious application of primitive and natural. After the Qing Dynasty, cloth introduced, because the price is expensive, a few people wear cloth clothing, most people still choose fur clothing. By the 1950s, Olunchun talents went down to live, and their clothing changed from fur clothing to cotton clothing, but the style continued the style of fur clothing. Today's Oroqun people, their daily life costumes have been basically Sinicized, but in their own festivals, the Oroqian people everywhere will wear their own national costumes to show the artistic charm of the Oroqun ethnic costumes. They protect and inherit their national costume culture in this way. The art of making roe deer skin has been listed as the intangible cultural heritage of our country, which shows the epoch-making significance of the study on the clothing of the Oroqian nationality. The trend of the development of dress and commercialization of Oroqun dress can not be ignored, and the protection of Oroqunchun dress should not be delayed. However, the multiple values (aesthetic value, cultural value) embodied in Oroqunchun dress can not be ignored. The value of academic research is also very important. Through the field investigation and understanding of the Oroqen nationality, this paper collates a lot of pictures and materials, which lays a theoretical foundation for the study of the Oroqian costume culture. Firstly, it discusses the geographical environment of the Oroqen nationality. The historical development and the origin of the dress culture, then to the Olunchun nationality clothing carries on the summary, namely: from the head clothing, the body clothing, the foot clothing, to the accessory and its shaman clothing and the god hat and so on carries on the explanation, then carries on the modelling to its clothing and the accessories, The color, pattern and decoration are analyzed. Finally, the inheritance, protection and value of Oroqun national costume culture are expounded. On the basis of field investigation, this paper clarifies the value of the study of Oroqun ethnic dress by using the theory of costume science. Based on the study of the shape of ethnic costumes, the origin, classification, modeling, pattern, color, decoration and development trend of Oroqun ethnic costumes are discussed in an all-round way. From the point of view of protection and inheritance, this paper probes into the vitality and development of Oroqun national costume, and preserves and extends the rich connotation of Oroqun national costume culture under the premise of better adapting to the present society.
【学位授予单位】：哈尔滨师范大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.5

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