苗侗女性服饰文化比较研究

发布时间：2018-03-11 05:24

本文选题：苗族　切入点：侗族　出处：《中央民族大学》2010年博士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】： 民族服饰是一个民族物质文化与精神文化相结合的产物。它像一面镜子,能够折射出一个民族的历史、文化、经济、宗教、审美、工艺、习俗等,是民族文化的重要组成部分。苗族、侗族女性服饰是中国少数民族服饰百花园中的奇葩,具有丰富的款式、精美的刺绣、耀眼的银饰、高超的技艺及其所蕴含的精神内容。苗族和侗族具有各自的民族传统文化,因而两者的女性服饰具有各自的特征。同时,相似的生产生活方式以及居住地的地缘相近使得两者的女性服饰又存在着一定的相似性。因此,对苗族、侗族女性服饰文化进行比较研究,无论是从民族学的学科视角还是从服饰学专业的角度来看,都具有一定的学术意义。随着信息时代的到来,交通因素、交流因素、生活方式因素等原因使得苗族、侗族女性服饰有着趋同的发展趋向。此外,经济利益的驱动以及生活状态的改变,使得苗族、侗族女性服饰实物的流失现象非常严重,而纺纱、织布、染布、刺绣等一系列技艺面临着失传的危险。因此,对苗族、侗族女性服饰文化的研究也具有一定的现实意义。本文将田野调查研究与文献资料研究方法相结合。笔者的田野调查主要集中在苗族、侗族聚居的贵州省黔东南苗族侗族自治州,通过实地调查得到了大量的一手资料,包括访谈纪录、照片与录像,为本文写作打下了较为坚实的资料基础。同时,对历史文献资料进行梳理,为深入的分析与研究该问题提供了保障。本论文结合民族学与服饰学的相关理论,以文化变迁与文化比较为理论依据,对苗族、侗族女性的服饰实物、穿着者、制作者、穿着习俗、穿着状态等方面进行了细致的梳理。本文主要由以下几个问题组成：一、苗族、侗族女性的服装比较,从主体服饰和辅助服饰两个方面(包括上衣、下衣、头帕、胸兜、花带、围裙、背带、条裙、绑腿等)对苗族、侗族女性服装进行比较；二、苗族、侗族女性首饰与佩饰,将身体各部位所佩戴的首饰和盛装上的银饰两个方面进行比较,分析苗族、侗族首饰与佩饰的实用价值、装饰审美价值与社会价值,同时将二者的头饰、颈饰、胸饰和背饰、手饰以及佩饰进行比较；三、服饰纹样和刺绣图案,将苗族、侗族女性服饰的纹样类型、刺绣技法和刺绣图案的布局、造型、情景两个方面进行比较；四、服饰文化与审美比较,从苗族、侗族女性文化与服饰(包括苗族、侗族女性性格特征比较,苗族、侗族女性的爱美、爱好和爱年轻,苗族、侗族女性恋爱、婚姻、育儿与服饰),苗族、侗族女性服饰的文化意蕴(如神话传说的烙印、图腾崇拜的影响、本民族文化的体现),苗族、侗族女性服饰的作用、风俗、禁忌与穿着习惯,苗族、侗族女性服饰的审美(主要是造型、色彩、风格、意蕴)四个方面进行比较；五、苗族、侗族女性服饰的传承现状,从苗族、侗族女性服饰传承的影响因素(经济因素、文化交流因素、生活方式因素)、传承的现状(包括综述部分和对雷山县西江苗寨的个案分析)以及少数民族传统服饰传承现状与出路三个方面进行论述,并在最后提出了少数民族传统服饰保护、发展和传承的设想。本文的着重探讨了苗族、侗族女性服饰二者的相似性、差异性以及各自的成因,由此进一步探讨以苗族、侗族女性服饰以及中国少数民族服饰文化的保护、传承、研究、发展的问题。
[Abstract]:National costume is the product of the combination of material and spiritual culture of a nation. It reflects a nation's history, culture, economy, religion, aesthetics, craft, custom and so on, which is an important part of national culture.
Miao, Dong women's clothing is a wonderful China ethnic costumes in the garden, with rich style, exquisite embroidery, bright silver, superb skill and spirit of the content contained. Miao nationality and Dong nationality has its own national traditional culture, so the female clothing both have their respective characteristics. At the same time, similar the production life style and the same geographic environment makes their female clothes and there is a certain similarity. Therefore, the Miao, Dong women's clothing culture comparative study, both from the visual angle of Ethnology discipline or from the clothing professional point of view, have a certain academic significance.
With the advent of the information age, traffic factors, communication factors, lifestyle factors such as causes of Miao, Dong female costume has a trend of convergence development. In addition, driven by economic interests and lifestyle changes, the Miao, Dong female clothing physical flow loss phenomenon is very serious, and spinning, weaving, dyeing, embroidery a series of art is facing the danger of extinction. Therefore, the study of Dong Miao, women's clothing culture also has certain practical significance.
This paper combines field research and literature research methods. The author's fieldwork mainly concentrated in Miao, Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture of Guizhou province Dong communities, through on-the-spot investigation to get a lot of first-hand information, including interviews, photos and videos, the data of a solid foundation for this thesis. At the same time, reviews the history of literature, provides a guarantee for the in-depth analysis and research of the problem.
This paper combined with the theory of Ethnology and learn to dress, cultural change and cultural comparison as the theoretical basis of the Miao, Dong women kind of clothing, wearing, wearing custom dress makers, state and other aspects of the detailed analysis. This paper consists of the following components: a problem, Miao, Dong female comparison the clothing, from the two aspects of the main and auxiliary clothing apparel (including shirts, clothing, headband, chest pockets, with flowers, aprons, straps, skirts, leggings etc.) of the Miao, Dong women's clothing were compared; two, Miao, Dong women jewelry and ornaments, compares the two aspects to wear the various parts of the body containing the silver jewelry and jewelry and ornaments of Miao and Dong analysis, practical value, aesthetic value and social value, and the two headdress, neckwear, pectoral and dorsal ornaments, jewelry and accessories are compared; three, clothing Decorative patterns and embroidery patterns, the Miao, Dong women dress pattern types, embroidery techniques and embroidery pattern layout, modeling, comparing two aspects of situation; four, costume culture and aesthetic comparison, from the Miao, Dong women culture and clothing (including Miao, Dong female character, Miao, Dong women beauty, love and love the young, Miao, Dong women love, marriage, parenting and clothing), Miao, Dong cultural connotation of women's apparel (reflected the national culture as the myths and legends of the brand influence, totem worship, Miao, Dong) women's clothing, customs, taboos and wearing habits, Miao the women's clothing aesthetic (mainly the shape, color, style, meaning) are compared in four aspects; five, Miao, Dong inheritance situation of women's apparel from Miao, Dong women's clothing factors (economic factor, cultural heritage Communication factors, lifestyle factors), inheritance status (including the review and analysis of Leishan Xijiang Miaozhai case) and status quo of the inheritance of ethnic traditional costumes in three aspects, and finally puts forward the protection of traditional ethnic costumes, idea of development and inheritance.
This article focuses on the similarities, differences and causes of the two women's costumes of Miao nationality and Dong nationality, so as to further explore the protection, inheritance, research and development of Miao nationality, Dong minority female costumes and Chinese minority dress culture.

【学位授予单位】：中央民族大学
【学位级别】：博士
【学位授予年份】：2010
【分类号】：K892.23

【引证文献】