明代女子佩饰“禁步”研究

发布时间：2018-03-02 22:10

本文选题：组玉佩　切入点：禁步　出处：《北京服装学院》2013年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：明代有一种叫做“禁步”的配饰，男女皆可佩戴，本文主要讨论女子佩戴的“禁步”。“禁步”是随着人体的行动跟着晃动并发出碰撞声响的佩饰。单从形制来讲，明代女子佩戴的禁步与以往朝代的组玉佩有很多相似之处。经过初步的研宄，可以梳理出它的主要类型。依据禁步佩戴的位置，，分为佩挂于腰间的腰佩式禁步和佩挂于胸前的坠胸式禁步两大类型。从佩戴意义来讲，“禁步”是对女子行步速度和行动声音的一种限制，体现了对女性审美的要求。本文主要就“禁步”的源流、“禁步”的形制、佩戴者的身份、佩带的场合以及女性审美等相关问题展开讨论。首先，通过分析周朝、汉朝、魏晋南北朝、唐朝组玉佩形制，以及节步与禁步的关系，理清明代之前组玉佩的发展脉络。然后，结合明代文献材料、图像材料，对比明代墓葬中出土的女性佩戴的“禁步”实物，进行分析和整理。讨论“禁步”的形制、材质以及佩戴身份与场合等物质文化的相关问题。从中可见“禁步”由早期“礼”的功能逐渐转换为审美功能的发展过程，其形制越来越多样，材质也越来越丰富，持续流行直至清代。最后，以“禁步”为中心，分析古今女子在整体形象塑造方面的差异，明代对女性形象的审美观照是全方位的，涉及视觉、听觉和嗅觉等三个层面，声音在女性审美中占有重要的位置。今天，我们对女性形象的塑造往往只侧重视觉效果，而忽视了听觉形象的塑造。那么，明代女性形象审美的几个层面或许能为今天的女性审美带来些许启迪。限于文献和实物材料的不足，关于“禁步”的研宄只是刚刚开始，深入的研宄实则难以展开。本文希望通过图像证史的方法，检讨一些有关“禁步”的基本问题，深入的研宄还有待更多的考古发现和文献材料来支撑。
[Abstract]:In the Ming Dynasty, there was a kind of accessories called "forbidden steps", which can be worn by both men and women. This article mainly discusses the "forbidden steps" worn by women. There are many similarities between the forbidden steps worn by women in the Ming Dynasty and those in the previous dynasties. After preliminary study, we can sort out its main types. According to the position of the forbidden walking, It can be divided into two types: waistband prohibitive gait and pendant walking in front of the chest. In the sense of wearing, "forbidden step" is a kind of restriction to the speed and sound of women's walking, which embodies the requirement of female aesthetic appreciation. This paper mainly discusses the origin of "forbidden steps", the form of "forbidden steps", the identity of the wearer, the occasion of wearing them and the aesthetic appreciation of women. First of all, through the analysis of the shape of jade in the Zhou, Han, Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern dynasties, and the Tang Dynasty, And the relationship between the festival step and the forbidden step, to clear up the development context of the group Yupei before the Ming Dynasty. Then, combining the literature materials and the image materials of the Ming Dynasty, the article compares the "forbidden step" objects worn by the women unearthed in the Ming Dynasty tombs. Analyzing and arranging. Discussing the related problems of material culture, such as the form, material, wearing identity and occasion of "forbidden step". From this, we can see that the function of "forbidden step" has gradually changed from the function of early "ritual" to the developing process of aesthetic function. Its shape is more and more diverse, the material is also more and more rich, continues to be popular until the Qing Dynasty. Finally, taking "forbidding steps" as the center, analyzes the difference in the whole image of the ancient and modern women, the aesthetic picture of the female image of the Ming Dynasty is omnidirectional. It involves three levels: vision, hearing and smell, and sound plays an important role in female aesthetics. Today, we tend to focus only on visual effects and neglect the shaping of auditory images. Several aspects of female image aesthetics in Ming Dynasty may bring some enlightenment to female aesthetics today. Limited to the shortage of literature and physical materials, the study of "forbidden steps" is just beginning, but it is difficult to carry out in-depth research. This paper hopes to review some basic problems about "forbidden steps" through the method of image history. Further research still needs more archaeological discoveries and documents to support.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2013
【分类号】：K875.2

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